Mount Forbes is a peak in the Canadian Rockies located 18 km southwest of the Saskatchewan River Crossing in Banff National Park. The mountain was named by James Hector in 1859 after Edward Forbes, Hector's natural history professor at the University of Edinburgh during the mid-nineteenth century.
Mt. Forbes was first ascended in 1902 by J. Norman Collie, James Outram, Hugh E.M. Stutfield, George M. Weed, Herman Woolley, guided by Christian Kaufmann.
Routes
- West Ridge (Normal Route) III
- North-West Face Variation III
- West Ridge of Rosita III 5.3
Most common approach route for Mount Forbes is from the Alberta side, starting at the Icefields parkway. Park at the Glacier Lake trailhead and follow the trail
to the head of Glacier Lake (13 km). From there follow the old trail up the north bank of the Glacier River to the large open basin at the head of the river. Ford the Glacier river. Find the climbers trail ascending the timbered knob at the south end of the basin. Follow this trail as it climbs steeply up the knob then crosses to the west and climbs improbably up toward cliffs to the west. Eventually you climb above the canyon and then drop slightly to the edge of the Mons Glacier. Camps can be made here or at the foot of the North Glacier of Mt. Forbes. From here, the peak can be climbed in a reasonable day. The approach takes 4-6 hours.
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